We provide lawn care in the following areas, Abbey Green, Abbey Hulton, Abbots Bromley, Above Church, Acres Nook, Acton Trussell, Adbaston, Admaston, Aldershawe, Alrewas, Alstonefield, Alsagers Bank, Alton, Amington, Anglesey, Anslow, Apeton, Armitage, Ashley, Audley, Baggots Bromley, Bagnall, Baldwin’s Gate, Balterley, Barlaston, Barton-under-Needwood, Basford, Beasley, Bentilee, Berkswich, Betley, Biddulph, Bignall End, Bilbrook, Birches Head, Blithbury, Blithfield, Blythe Bridge, Bobbington, Boney Hay, Boundary, Bradwell, Bramshall, Branston, Brewood, Brindley Heath, Brizlincote, Broad Meadow, Brocton, Brown Edge, Bucknall, Burslem, Burston, Burton upon Trent, Butterton, Cannock, Cannock Wood, Cauldon, Caverswall, Chasetown, Cheadle, Cheddleton, Chell, Cheslyn Hay, Chesterton, Church Eaton, Church Leigh, Clayton, Clifton Campville, Clough Hall, Chorley, Codsall, Colton, Comberford, Consall, Coton, Coton Clanford, Coton Hill, Coven, Crakemarsh, Crackley, Cross Heath, Croxden, Curborough, Dales Green, Denstone, Derrington, Dimsdale, Dods Leigh, Doxey, Draycott in the Clay, Drayton Bassett, Dresden, Eccleshall, Ecton, Edial, Edingale, Elford, Ellastone, Elmhurst, Endon, Enville, Essington, Etchinghill, Etruria,Farewell, Fazeley, Featherstone, Field, Fisherwick, Flash, Fole, Forsbrook, Four Ashes, Fradley, Freeford, Froghall, Gentleshaw, Gnosall, Godstone, Great Bridgeford, Great Haywood, Great Wyrley, Grindley, Hademore, Hales, Halmer End, Hammerwich, Hamstall Ridware, Hanchurch, Handsacre, Hanley, Harlaston, Harriseahead, Hartshill, Haselour, Haughton, Haunton, Heath Hayes, Hednesford, High Offley, Hill Ridware, Hilton, Hints, Hixon, Hollington, Hollins, Hopwas, Horninglow, Horton, Huddlesford, Hulme End, Huntington, Ilam, Ingestre, Ipstones, Keele, Kettlebrook, Kidsgrove, Kings Bromley, Kingstone, Kinver, Knightley, Knighton (Newcastle-under-Lyme), Knighton (Stafford), Knutton, Knypersley, Leek, Leycett, Lichfield, Little Aston, Little Haywood, Little Wyrley, Loggerheads, Longdon, Longnor, Longport, Longton, Lower Leigh, Lower Penn, Lower Tean, Loynton, Madeley, Maer, Marchington, Marchington Woodlands, Marston, near Stafford Marston, near Brewood Mavesyn Ridware, May Bank, Meaford, Meir, Middleport, Middleton Green, Miles Green, Milford, Mill Meece, Milton, Milwich, Moreton, Morrilow Heath, Mount Pleasant, Mow Cop, Mucklestone, Newborough, Newcastle-under-Lyme, Newchapel, Newton, Newtown, No Man’s Heath, Norbury, Norton Bridge, Norton Canes, Oakamoor, Offley Hay, Olive Green, Onecote, Onneley, Orgreave, Oulton, Outlands, Penkhull, Penkridge, Perton, Pipe Ridware, Pitts Hill, Porthill, Prospect Village, Pye Green, Quarnford, Ranton, Rawnsley, Rocester, Rodbaston, Rolleston on Dove, Rookery, Rudyard, Rugeley, Rushton Spencer, Salt, Sandon, Scot Hay, Seabridge, Seisdon, Shallowford, Shenstone, Sideway, Silverdale, Smallthorne, Sneyd Green, Spath, Stafford, Stanton, Statfold, Stoke-on-Trent, Stone, Stonnall, Stonydelph, Stowe-by-Chartley, Stramshall, Streethay, Stretton (Brewood), Stretton (Burton upon Trent), Swinfen, Syerscote, Talke, Talke Pits, Tamworth, Tatenhill, Thorpe Constantine, Tittensor, Tixall, Trentham, Tunstall, Tunstall (near Eccleshall), Tutbury, Upper Hulme, Upper Leigh, Upper Longdon, Upper Tean, Uttoxeter, Wall, Waterfall, Waterhouses, Weeford, Werrington, Westbury Park, Westlands, Weston, Weston-under-Lizard, Wheaton Aston, Whitehill, Whitgreave, Whitmore, Whittington, Wigginton, Willoughbridge, Willslock, Wilnecote, Wimblebury, Winshill, Withington, Wolstanton, Wombourne, Woodseaves, Wootton, Wordsley, Wrinehill, Yarnfield, Yarlet, Yoxall.
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web user 0 comments Blog cut my grass, grass advice, grass cutting advice, grass height, grass tips, how to mow a lawn, lawn height, lawnmower, mow my lawn, tips on cutting grass, when to cut grass
Cutting the lawn is the most time consuming part of lawn care. It seems sensible to do it correctly. Cutting grass short reduces rooting depth which in turn reduces the water the plant gets, this can cause stress, weakness and possible death of grasses during the dry spells. Mowing once a week will produce a much denser turf than if you mow every 2 weeks. Never remove more than one third of the grass bade on any one occasion. If your lawn mower is set for 1″ cut which is an ideal mowing height you must mow at or before the grass gets to 1½” whether that’s 4 days or 8 days before cut. In very dry weather raise the cut up one setting. Remember mowing height is a compromise between getting the superb looking lawn you want, allowing the grass enough leaf to be healthy and look greener.
Cut your grass as regular as you can, never cut too much off at any one time.
Probably stop cutting your grass at the end of May and start back again in August.
web user 0 comments Blog care and advice for lawns, grass and water, how much water to put on your lawn, summer lawn watering, watering your grass, watering your lawn, when to water a lawn, yellow grass
You should water your lawn deeply once a week.
Always try and water your lawn in the summer or when we didn’t get much rain for a long period of time.
Grass is made up of 85% water, so every time you cut the grass, you are removing water.
Water when the lawn tells you to. The signs to look for when the lawn is starting to gasp a little are; a change in colour of the lawn as it often takes on a bluey tinge as moisture levels become low and the lawn then turns brown. Water deeply each time you water. You must avoid having wet grass at night as this promotes disease, therefore water before the heat of the day so that the lawn has time to dry before nightfall.
web user 0 comments Blog kill weeds, lawn weedkiller, lawn weeds, no weeds, remove weeds in my lawn, selective herbicide, weedkiller, weeds
Lawn weeds can be a major problem, taking over areas of bare soil. Nobody wants their lawn to be overrun with weeds so it is important to keep control of them.
There are a variety of ways to get rid of weeds in your lawn:
We always kill all unwanted weeds in your lawn.
We use a selective herbicide to remove them.
All our satisfied custers will have a weed free lawn.
Use a lawn weedkiller
To tackle occasional lawn weeds, use a weedkiller designed for use on grass such as Resolva Lawn Weedkiller. This is really important as if you use a general purpose weedkiller, it will kill your grass as well. This ready to use spray can be directed straight onto common weeds such as buttercup, daisy, dandelion and clover.
Use a lawn feed, weed and moss killer
Large areas of weedy lawns are best treated with a law feed, weed and moss killer, such as Aftercut All in One.
This will boost the lawn while tackling weeds and moss.
Apply the granules, using the Even-Flo spreader and leave to work for 1-2 weeks. When the weeds and moss die and turn brown, rake them out gently and dispose.
Remove weeds by grabbing hold of the stem and pulling.
It is very important to remove all the root system of each weed otherwise new plants will simply grow back from each of the pieces left behind.
web user 0 comments Blog best time to scarify a lawn, hollow tine aerate, lawn damage, lawn repair, moss, remove moss, remove thatch, scarify, scarifying, thatch
The best time to scarify your lawn.
We are the most recommended company to scarify your lawn or lawns.
Scarifying to us is an art form, we have been scarifying lawns for many years and we always get the best results.
When we scarify your lawn or lawns, we always hollow tine aerate them afterwards as well as re-seed or over seed the lawn or lawns.
We do this as part of our moss and thatch removal and repair to your lawn.
Raking or scarifying your lawn, whether it be for thatch or moss, is in the long term an extremely beneficial procedure but in the short term it can make a right old mess of it. Though it will recover and be better than ever, getting there in the shortest possible time is our ultimate objective.
So many times I see people doing a thoroughly good job with their scarifying but at the wrong time of year or in the wrong conditions. This means the lawn is an eye sore for weeks if not months afterwards. You may also cause damage to your otherwise healthy grass plants thereby worsening the problem. Makes me shudder!
Time your programme according to the ability of the lawn to recover. This means warmth, sun and rain whilst avoiding cold, heat or drought. In other words you need good growing conditions and if your lawn isn’t growing well before scarifying then it won’t grow well afterwards leaving you with a much disfigured lawn!
Spring: Raking & Light Scarifying
Light de-thatching or scarifying and moss removal can be done in spring and or autumn. Spring generally means sometime in April just as things warm up thereby increasing the growth and recovery rate but before the heat and dryness of summer slows things down. Autumn would generally be late August or September as the rains start but before the cold sets in.
Autumn: Heavy Scarifying
For heavy thatch or moss infestations requiring deeper scarifying or raking then try to stick to the autumn period. Why?
Heavy raking or scarifying is going to seriously thin the lawn leaving soil exposed in many places. This makes an ideal seed bed not only for over seeding with new and improved grass seed but also for all the weed and weed grass seeds floating around. By confining this intensive treatment to August or September you will avoid the bulk of the years weed seeds. If you do this in spring you’ll just replace your moss or thatch problem with a weed problem! Having said that, there are a few exceptions when spring is the best time:
It is better to rake or scarify in spring if you were unable to do it the previous autumn perhaps due to bad weather rather than put it off. Keep putting it off from autumn to autumn could mean you’ll have a bigger problem than a few weeds!
If the area to be scarified is shady. Shady areas will thin over winter and thicken up from spring onwards. Therefore if you scarify in autumn you’ll just make things worse.
If the area is under trees. The shade from trees plus the autumn fall of leaves will reduce grass health and vigour but in spring – late March through April – the trees are bare allowing maximum light to your lawn enabling good growth and maximum opportunity for new grass seed to get growing.
Ready the Lawn for Scarifying or Raking
Planning ahead is important. You need short dry grass for raking or scarifying so bring the grass height down gradually over a week or two before hand. This doesn’t shock the grass whilst also allowing air deeper into the turf helping dry the grass.
If you have any weeds in your lawn then you can manually remove them but don’t use any weed killer. Scarifying within a few weeks of weed killer application disrupts the weed killing process and in addition may cause seed germination issues if you are going to over seed after scarifying. Scarifying can help control some creeping weeds though.
The final bit of preparation is to have good soil moisture so that the lawn recovers as quickly as possible afterwards. If there is too much (soft ground) or too little (dry hard soil) you need to either wait until the conditions improve, assist them to improve or not rake or scarify at all.
The day before attacking the lawn mow it as close as possible without scalping. Long grass just creates resistance to the scarifier with ultimately more rubbish to collect. Dry grass and moss makes life a lot easier as well. Plan to rake on a dry day with no dew around. The afternoons are often best. If the weather doesn’t play ball, keep the grass short until you get another raking opportunity.
web user 0 comments Blog aeration, grass seed, hollow tine, lawn renovation, lawn repair, lawn seed, scarifying, topdressing
Hollow Tine Lawn Aeration is the process of taking small plugs from the lawn, which is the best way of easing compaction and sub-surface thatch, allowing air, water and fertiliser to penetrate to the root zone. This is particularly effective at the beginning and end of the growing season. A lawn aerator can also help the lawn through drought stress conditions; enabling water retention in the crucial root zone.
What to expect
Your lawn treatment expert will arrive on a pre-arranged date to carry out your hollow tine aeration treatment. The length of time a hollow tine aeration will take is very much dependent upon the size of the area to be treated but for an average size lawn measuring 170m2 you should expect the treatment to be completed within 1 – 2 hours. The lawn aerator will be moved backwards and forwards across your lawn, removing plugs from the turf as it goes. The removal of these plugs will relieve compaction and allow air, water and nutrients to circulate within the soil to the roots of the grass. Once the treatment is complete your lawn will be covered with soil plugs but do not worry, it is Greensleeves’ policy to improve the appearance of your lawn and therefore we always rake them up and take away the debris with us.
To explain the process fully we have created the video to the right to show you what you can expect from an aeration treatment.
There are multiple types of lawn aerators available, each for doing different things to the lawn. A spike aerator pokes holes into the lawn, allowing it to have greater access to the air, water and nutrients. These come in the form of hand held, aerator shoes or rolling aerators. Although this will help the lawn a little, it is not the most effective way to aerate a lawn. At Greensleeves Lawn Care, we use hollow tining, which is also known as core aerators or plug aerators. This process removes cores of soil from your lawn, allowing the air and water to reach deeper into the sub-surface soil. This breaks down the most heavily compacted soil, whereas a spike aerator can further compact the soil around the area you have spiked.
Why does my lawn need aerating?
Over time most soils will become compacted, squashing the particles together and reducing the grasses ability to grow well. This compaction will itself cause a number of problems, such as increasing the likelihood of the lawn becoming flooded or water logged. Compacted soils are much more likely to become infested with weeds such as daisies or moss. The roots are unable to access the nutrients they require, so the grass tends to be thin weak and pale in compacted soils.
If thatch is a problem in your lawn, then the best way to reduce its impact on the turf growth is through lawn aeration.
How often does my lawn need aerating?
A lawn cannot be over aerated as long as it is not damaged. In most cases, it’s the more often the better. As a rule, Greensleeves tend to suggest that it is carried out every year, but as all soil types / lawns and situations are different it is really something that needs to be discussed individually with your Lawn Manager. Your lawn manager will constantly be assessing your lawn and will highlight to you any problems they detect and advise you when they believe hollow tine aeration is required.
We are the best company to aerate your lawn for you, we can also provide a topdressing service as well as overseeing and reseeding of your lawns or lawns.
When we scarify your lawn or lawns, we always aerate as well. This is part of our lawn renovation service.
web user 0 comments Blog fertilizer, Lawn Care, moss killer, mosskiller, thatch, weed killer, weedkiller
Lawn care near me, we are like grenthumb and greensleeves in that we work in the areas of Cheshire, Staffordshire and Chester.
Stoke-On-Trent is a good area for us. We will visit you any day of the week, you can give us a call today and we’ll see you in Stafford, knutsford, middlewich, holmes chappell.
Also, we can visit you in Knutsford or northwich.
We’ll always try our very best to make your lawn green and moss free, without weeds.
web user 0 comments Blog fertilizer, Lawn Care, moss, moss killer, pink patch, red thread, thatch, weed killer
Mad About Lawns offers the very best in lawncare and also lawn care.
Better than greenthumb, Madaboutlawns are the real experts and very professional.
They can scarify and aerate your lawn, kill moss and weeds.
Rated as the best lawn care experts.